Sri Lanka – a Travel Journal

After COVID, cancer, the cold and a few other obstacles, we have found our way back to Kandy. We spent a few days sofa-surfing, including a few days in the Hanthana Hills at Jungle Tide, a lovely place to stay. The track up to a lovely traditional house was interesting; see the picture. The views across the valley to the opposite Knuckles range of mountains are fantastic. Eventually, we found a spacious apartment beside the Mahawali River. I told my friend where we were. His response was, ‘We’ll come over for dinner tonight. The whole family.’

Dinner for Nine

How would madam manage in a new apartment equipped with a few tea bags, a kettle, and not much else, and a family coming for dinner? Our landlord, Pri, liked the idea of a party and decided to come as well. There has not been much partying here in Sri Lanka recently. He phoned his friend at the Flower Song Restaurant and ordered spring rolls, cuttlefish, fried prawns, chicken and pineapple, sweet and sour fish and pork. For an extra £1, they would deliver. We bought 4 litres of Coke. Sprite, Mountain Dew and EGB – Elephant Ginger Beer; it really tastes of ginger, unlike ours. I mustn’t leave out the date cake and tubs of ice cream. Miracle of miracles, it all turned up on time.

We made a salad, but we had no dressing. A small bottle of olive oil (expensive), a few limes (plentiful, cheap and juicy) and coconut water vinegar made the base, but it needed pepper. Pri had some fresh corns and ground them on a stone. Fresh peppercorns are to our imported pepper as depth charges are to firecrackers.

Social Security

The health workers are not on strike, not yet, anyway. Just as in the UK, some people are going hungry.

There is no Social Security here except that provided by your own family. In the high street, a man is holding out his fingerless hand. I don’t know whether because of an accident or leprosy. Another man is there with no legs. He sits on a board with castors underneath and propels himself around with his hands. People hand over their small change. Amputees must buy their own artificial legs. We are involved with the charity that provides legs and bought one on each of our visits. On Fridays, elderly widows are permitted to stand outside shops. When the proprietor notices them, he passes a few rupees out for them.

Twice we have seen someone giving out meal packets. One guy explained that he was providing 20 meal packets to the needy to celebrate his mother’s birthday. I thought that a moving gesture.

Some set up a pavement businesses. This is your man if you break a shoe strap or flip-flop. Here’s an established business in the market. This man is mending the strap on one of our bags. He asked 25p for doing it.

Tourists

A few tourists are returning. China flew in a plane load to the white elephant airport they built in the south. ‘They’re no use to us,’ said one Sri Lankan. ‘They only go to Chinese-owned hotels and shops.

Instead, we went to Simpsons Forest a boutique hotel that used to be a planter’s house. Our friend was brought up there as a child. Her bedroom now houses the snooker table. Clove and nutmeg trees surround the grounds. It has the most scenic infinity pool I have ever seen.

Costs

Imported goods are prohibitively expensive, £8 for a packet of porridge oats, but Sri Lanka makes very good biscuits, yoghurt, beer, and gin. We had to buy a new kettle, I forgot about the old one; it boiled dry and melted. We purchased one that switches itself off. I am not a good shopper but I was proud to find a jar of Marmite in the supermarket.

Vacation

If you are thinking about Sri Lanka for holidays, come. The hotels and beaches are quiet, there is less traffic than usual, and the prices are competitive. I’ve met many local tour operators now, and they are a great bunch of guys, knowledgeable, helpful, and eager to please. Book them up when you get here for the best prices.

If your holiday revolves around gourmet food and cheap booze, you will be better off elsewhere. If you want to meet wonderful people, see mountain temples, go on animal safari and enjoy the beach, this is for you. If you like architecture, choose a hotel designed by Geoffry Bawa and visit his house and estate near Bentota.

Book directly with the hotel if you can. The prices are more competitive. A hotel on the website quoted us £102 per night. By phoning the hotel direct, we got one of the best rooms for $65 per night. If you are on a budget, rooms are available from £10.